Most Common Men's Suit Styles
Quoting Vincent: "Being a gentleman is a state of mind rather than mere appearance." That said, gentlemen tend to gravitate toward a well-tailored suit more often than others. After all, there’s no better place for a FatCloth pocket square than a well-fitted suit’s welted pocket. Whether you're heading to a business meeting, a formal event, or simply want to elevate your wardrobe, understanding the different types of men’s suits is essential. Here’s a breakdown of the most common men's suit styles to help you choose the one that best suits your personality and occasion. To save some server space and avoid going overboard, we’ve left out white tie and specialty outfits from this article.
safe choice
The Classic Fit Suit
The classic fit, or "regular fit," suit is a timeless option that never goes out of style—provided the tailoring evolves with the times. After all, a classic suit cut from the 1920s looks quite different from what is considered classic a hundred years later. Known for its comfortable and relaxed fit, this suit is ideal for men who prefer a more traditional look. The jacket features broader shoulders and ample room through the chest and waist, making it perfect for everyday office wear or formal occasions. The trousers are typically straight-legged, offering both comfort and ease of movement.
If the classic fit suit were a car, it would be a Mercedes-Benz E-Class sedan—somewhat of a predictable choice, but undeniably comfortable, especially in the back seat.
Occasions: Business meetings, weddings, office wear.
Snug choice
The Slim Fit Suit
The slim fit suit with or without the vest is a modern twist on the classic, offering a tailored silhouette that hugs the body without being too tight. The jacket is narrower through the chest and waist, while the trousers are tapered to create a sleek, streamlined look. This style is particularly popular among younger men or anyone aiming for a sharper, more contemporary vibe.
Vincent wants to stress the most important point about slim fits: don’t go too tight unless you’re deliberately chasing the “sausage look” (and the risk of popped seams). Don’t worry—your workout regimen will still shine through with a slightly looser cut.
If the slim fit suit were a car, it’d be a Porsche 911. It turns heads, but in a refined way—not as in-your-face as a Lamborghini.
Occasions: Cocktail parties, fashion-forward events, or semi-formal gatherings.
Contemporary choice
The modern fit suit
The modern fit suit strikes a perfect balance between the classic and slim fits, making it a versatile choice for men who want a sharp, tailored look without sacrificing the mobility of a slim fit. This style features a slightly tapered waist and slimmer trousers while still allowing enough room for comfort. It’s an excellent option for those who prefer a clean, fitted appearance without leaning too trendy. Probably what Vincent would choose if he were in his thirties today.
If the modern fit suit were a car, it’d be a Tesla Model S. Not the flashiest design, but it’ll get you off the line at a red light faster than most.
Occasions: Business settings, formal events, or date nights.
Bold choice
The double breasted suit
When you’re ready to set a trend or leave a lasting impression, a double-breasted suit is the way to go. With its bold, sophisticated design, this style is for those who want to make a powerful statement. Featuring two rows of buttons on the front and a wider lapel, the double-breasted suit pays homage to the elegance of the mid-20th century while enjoying a modern resurgence. Its structured fit often adds an air of authority and polish to the wearer.
Show up to the casino in a Saab Viggen, and you’ll understand the vibe—unconventional yet commanding.
Occasions: High-profile events, important meetings, or elegant social gatherings.
gentlemanly choice
The three piece suit
“Roll like a true gent!” Vincent has a soft spot for anyone who goes the extra mile with the third piece. A three-piece suit includes a jacket, trousers, and a matching vest, adding an extra layer of formality and sophistication. It’s a perfect choice for special occasions or when you want to exude polish and distinction. The waistcoat creates a slimming effect and helps the suit maintain its structure—even when the jacket comes off.
It’s like rolling in a vintage Bentley. You can almost smell the class.
Occasions: Weddings, black-tie events, upscale functions, or simply for the joy of dressing sharp.
festive choice
The tuxedo
Watch out for the penguins! For the most formal occasions, the tuxedo is the ultimate go-to. Distinguished by its satin lapels, buttons, and often a satin stripe down the trousers, the tuxedo is made for black-tie events. It’s typically paired with a bow tie and a formal shirt featuring a pleated or wing collar. While it’s the epitome of formalwear, modern tuxedos can also be personalized with touches like velvet jackets or unique colors. If you’d rather blend in and not steal the spotlight, stick with classic black and white.
So, you arrived in a limo. Was it a rental?
Relaxed choice
The unstructured suit
The unstructured suit is a relaxed, casual spin on traditional tailoring. With little to no padding in the shoulders and minimal lining, it offers a softer, more comfortable fit. This style is perfect for warmer climates or for those who prefer a less formal, more laid-back look while still maintaining a sharp appearance. If you’re in the mood to take it easy, the unstructured suit might just be your best pick for the day.
Show up to a date in a fully restored VW Karmann Ghia, and luck might just be on your side.
Occasions: Casual weddings, summer parties, business-casual events.
Mediterranean choice
The linen suit
Ready to meet the lions? Don’t forget to bring your clothing iron! Perfect for warm-weather months, the linen suit is a breathable and lightweight option that masterfully blends style and comfort. Known for its airy fabric, it keeps you cool on hot days—but beware, it wrinkles more easily than wool or cotton. Despite this, its relaxed and effortlessly stylish vibe makes it a standout choice for summer weddings or outdoor events.
Forget the cars—I’ll catch up with you guys on my Vespa!
Master your suits
The conclusion
Choosing the right suit for a modern gentleman’s style depends on personal taste, body shape, and the occasion. A skilled tailor can adjust any suit to fit the body’s shape, but choosing the best style requires a good eye from the wearer as well. From the timeless appeal of the classic fit to the bold presence of a double-breasted suit, each style offers an opportunity to make a lasting impression—when worn with confidence. Invest in a suit that not only flatters your body type but also suits the event you’re attending, and you’ll be well on your way to graduating with honors from Vincent’s School of Modern Gentlemen.
In the upcoming articles, we’ll explore topics such as which colors work well together and the essential accessories every modern gentleman should own.